You can slice open a bud and see the tiny leaves and flowers that are folded up inside. A magnifying glass can make this task easier. Some trees have separate buds for leaves and flowers, while others have both flowers and leaves curled up in the same bud. Forming buds late in the growing season allows trees and shrubs to begin growth quickly in the spring.

You will notice that most deciduous tree buds have overlapping scales to protect the tender leaves and flowers inside. Some plants like magnolias and butternut trees have fuzzy buds. The buds on my magnolia are very prominent all through winter.

Because of the diversity of colors, shapes, and sizes, you can identify trees and shrubs in the winter simply by studying their buds and the arrangement of buds on the stem. In red and sugar maples, lateral buds are in pairs opposite each other on the stem. In elms, side buds spiral up the stem singly. Red oaks have a cluster of buds at the end of their branches – a terminal bud with many scales and two or three slightly smaller laterals. Other lateral buds alternate up the stem, according to northernwoodlands.org.

Wildlife can damage buds by eating them. They are packed with nutrition and can be attractive to deer. Additionally, squirrels, songbirds, and other animals can consume winter buds. I have watched sparrows eat the flower buds on my forsythia – the impact on the bloom can be quite noticeable in the spring.

If you have forsythia, crabapple, witch-hazel, or pussy willows in your yard, you can cut budded branches and force them into bloom inside. Michigan State University Extension says taking cuttings closer to springtime (right now) makes it easier to force them into bloom.

Use sharp pruners to cut branches that are at least one foot long. Have a bucket of warm water with you and immediately put the cuttings in the water. To help branches take up water, you can cut a short slit up the bottom of the stem before placing it in the bucket.

When you bring the branches inside, place them in a cool place, such as the basement, that stays around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep them out of direct sunlight, as that can dry out the branches and prevent blooms from opening. It can take two to five weeks, MSU says, for the branches to bloom. Change the water frequently, and misting the stems and buds with water can also help to keep them from drying out.

As the blooms begin to open, you can move the branches to a brighter location for display. Keeping them cool can prolong bloom time.

Sarah Zeiler of Michigan State University Extension recently wrote an article on how these crops benefit home gardeners.

It is important to understand the differences among the methods and how to use them effectively to achieve the best results. Zeiler notes that as gardeners, we need to think about creating a healthy environment where our plants can thrive. It is not just about putting seeds and transplants in the ground and watching them grow. Companion, trap, and cover crops can help the garden in significant ways by controlling pests, improving soil health, and increasing productivity.

Companion crops are just that: they are planted close together and help each other. Zeiler says help is provided in multiple ways, including improving growth and protection against pests and disease. These plantings work by attracting beneficial insects – pollinators and bug-fighting insects like ladybugs. Some companions help improve soil nutrients – legumes, for example, fix nitrogen in the soil. Companions can even provide shade or support for neighboring plants. Examples include planting basil near tomatoes to help repel damaging insects and improve tomato flavor, and marigolds planted with vegetables to deter nematodes and aphids. The well-known Three Sisters combination of squash, beans, and corn utilized by Indigenous peoples is another example. Zeiler says companion planting can be especially helpful in small gardens with limited space. It creates a more balanced and diverse ecosystem and can help reduce the need for chemicals.

There are many great resources available with detailed information about companion planting, including books by Louise Riotte, Roses Love Garlic and Carrots Love Tomatoes, and a wonderful book by local author Sally Jean Cunningham, Great Garden Companions.

The next method is trap crops. Zeiler defines trap crops as those that are planted to attract pests away from your main crops. They act like decoys, distracting pests from the crops you are growing for harvest. In addition to keeping pests away from your plants, trap crops can also be a valuable way to monitor pest populations in your yard. One example of a trap crop is using mustard to deter flea beetles and cabbage worms away from cabbage. University of Florida Extension says that Blue Hubbard squash can trap squash bugs, cucumber beetles, and even squash vine borers, keeping them away from other cucurbit crops. University of Florida Extension says that trap crops should be planted in advance of the crops you plan to harvest. For pests with limited mobility, a perimeter of trap crops is most effective. For pests that can move freely between plants, planting the trap crop intermittently through the main patch will be most effective. Remove trap crops once they become infested.

Finally, cover crops help to feed and improve the soil. Zeiler says cover crops are planted when the garden would otherwise be bare – typically in the fall or early spring. They help by preventing soil erosion, adding organic matter, improving soil structure and fertility, suppressing weeds, fixing nitrogen (clover and vetch), and supporting beneficial insects. The largest benefit, Zeiler explains, is below-ground in the root matter, but the tops can be harvested and used for compost. Biomass from legumes and grasses, in particular, can make a rich biomass when composted to improve soil tilth, water retention, and nutrient availability. Common cover crops include rye, oats, clover, and hairy vetch. Look for cover crops in seed catalogs.

When purchasing plants or planning your garden landscape, there are many things to consider that will help pollinators, even the color of the flower blooms. University of Wisconsin-Madison says bees cannot see the color red, but are attracted to day-blooming white, yellow, blue, and purple flowers with mild to sweet or minty scents. Wasps head for dull-colored white or yellow flowers with a nectar source. Wasps are garden helpers as they can be predators and even parasites of trouble-making insects like the tomato hornworm. Butterflies like red, orange, yellow, pink, and purple day-blooming flowers that are rich in nectar. Moths are drawn to late-day or night-blooming flowers that are dull colored but very fragrant. Beetles like blooms with large bowl-shaped white or green flowers with exposed stamens and pistils. Not surprisingly, flies like dark brown or purple flowers, especially those with a putrid scent. They are not looking for nectar, but pollen. Ants help to pollinate low-growing, small, inconspicuous flowers that grow close to the stem and have a nectar source. Finally, hummingbirds are drawn to hot, bright colors like red, yellow, and pink. They look for large, funnel, cup-shaped, or tubular flowers.

The University of Wisconsin-Madison has a long list of ways to help support pollinators in your garden and yard. Diversity of plants is very important – think a mix of trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals with various bloom times. Go for a mix of woody and herbaceous plants with different colored flowers, shapes, and sizes. Stay away from double blooms that have no pollen or nectar, or pollen and nectar that are hidden. When disease and insect problems occur, make it a priority to avoid pesticides. Integrated Pest Management uses chemicals as a last resort.

Remember to include host plants for caterpillars such as milkweed and white oak. This will not only increase the number of pollinators but also support native bird species. Create places where soil can be left bare and undisturbed to encourage ground nesters. Provide habitat for shelter with trees, shrubs, and ornamental grasses. Keep part of a dead tree trunk or branches to provide cavities. A source of clean water is also very helpful. A birdbath, fountain, pond, or decorative trays and dishes that can hold an inch of water provide a place for birds and other pollinators to drink.

The term “wildflower” is not regulated, MSU says, meaning different seed companies may use the term differently in their marketing. Wildflower does not necessarily mean native. A packet of wildflower seeds may contain seeds of some native plants, but most wildflower seeds will come from Asia and Europe. If you find wildflower seeds labeled as “native plants,” they should be plants native to North America.

Michigan State University Extension advises that when purchasing wildflower seed packets, you should read the package carefully. Look for packets that have both the common and scientific names of plants. Utilize an Internet search to learn about plants with which you are not familiar, and check where they are native. You should also check whether seeds for plants that may be problematic in your area are included.

As an example, MSU cites common garden lupine (Lupinus polyphyllus). This plant is detrimental to pollinators because it attracts the endangered Karner blue butterfly to lay eggs on its leaves, but the resulting caterpillars eventually die because they cannot eat the leaves of common garden lupine. They require perennial lupine (Lupinus perennis), the only plant that Karner blue butterfly caterpillars can safely eat.

Also, note on the package whether it says the seeds are for annuals, biennials, or perennials. If they are annual plants, they will grow and die in a single season. You will have plants and blooms the first season, but you will need to allow the plants to re-seed if you want blooms the following year.

Biennials will grow but will not flower until the second year. Perennials may bloom the first year but may not bloom until the second or even third season.

Additionally, you need to know your soil – is it acidic, alkaline, or neutral? Determine your soil pH and the pH levels best suited to the plants in your seed mix. Do your plants need well-drained soil? If your soil is heavy clay, perennial plants that need well-drained conditions may not survive to a second season. If your seed mix includes plants that need full sun, make sure you plant them in a sunny location.

Finally, planting a mix of wildflower seeds requires preparation. You cannot just throw the seeds over an area covered by lawn or weeds. Michigan State University says you must remove existing grass. There are many ways to do this, including covering the area with old rugs or cardboard for an entire growing season before you plant; digging by hand or rototilling to remove turf and weeds; or using herbicide. Remember to follow the package directions, and do not use herbicides that will stay in the soil and prevent seeds from germinating.

Follow the seed packet regarding seed depth and other requirements. Water the area regularly to help seeds germinate and put down strong roots. The hardest part of using wildflower mixes may still be ahead of you: you will need to hand-pull any weeds so that they do not take over and rob your wildflowers of necessary water, light, and nutrients.

The more you know, the better when buying seed mixes for wildflower gardens. They may not contain seeds for native plants like the coneflowers shown here. Photo by Kristina Gabalski.

Peppermint (Mentha piperita) is a cross between wintermint and spearmint, according to Michigan State University Extension. MSU also has some fun facts about the minty herb. The history of peppermint dates back at least to Ancient Egypt, where medical texts from 1550 BC include mention of the herb. Peppermint is mentioned in Greek Mythology, by Roman philosophers, and by monks in the Middle Ages. The ancient Greeks believed peppermint helped cure hiccups. Traditional medicine in both the East and West has used peppermint as an aromatic, antispasmodic, and antiseptic in treating indigestion, nausea, sore throat, colds, toothaches, cramps, and cancers.

Michigan State University notes that peppermint grows between 18 and 36 inches tall and 24 inches wide and spreads by runners above and just below the ground’s surface. Like all mints, it can become invasive in the home garden, so it is best grown in containers; 12- to 16-inch pots can support the plants to mature size. Specialized cells in the leaves of the plant produce peppermint oil, which is released when the leaves are crushed or chopped. Harvest peppermint on a sunny day, just when the plants are beginning to flower.

The University of Illinois notes that a distinct identifying characteristic of members of the mint family is square stems. The four distinct angles can be felt by rolling the stems between two fingers or observed by cutting a stem. Other members of the mint family include giant hyssop, bugleweed, coleus, spotted dead nettle, lemon balm, beebalm, catnip, and salvia.

There is research to support peppermint’s health benefits. Michigan State University Extension says the aroma of peppermint can help enhance memory and increase alertness and processing speed. The aroma can also boost your mood, reduce stress, enhance sleep, self-confidence, and physical and cognitive performance. Additionally, peppermint can improve our quality of life by aiding the digestive process and pain tolerance. One study even found that peppermint can decrease anxiety and fatigue while driving.

According to Illinois Extension, research suggests that the main volatile components of peppermint oil – menthol and menthone – offer the health benefits of significant antimicrobial and antiviral properties, antioxidant properties, and even potential use as an antiallergenic. In studies where peppermint oil was used with human subjects, some benefits to the respiratory and gastrointestinal systems were observed, Illinois Extension reports.

If you grow peppermint in your garden, both the leaves and flowers are edible, and Illinois Extension says you can use them to garnish salads, desserts, and drinks. To make peppermint tea, steep crushed peppermint leaves in hot (not boiling) water for five to ten minutes, then sweeten if desired.

Continue to enjoy peppermint as we move through the winter months. January 19 is National Chocolate Mint Day! Have some peppermint hot cocoa, peppermint bark, or mint-chocolate cookies!

Peppermint is a popular winter flavor for beverages and desserts. This member of the mint family also has medicinal and health benefits. Photo by Kristina Gabalski.

December 21 is the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year. Climate specialists are more specific: it is the day when the noon sun is at its lowest point in the sky all year.

Although the days are dark and cold, plants still play an important role at this time of year. You may be enjoying a poinsettia or amaryllis plant in your home right now, getting ready for winter sowing, still harvesting cool-season crops like carrots, or growing herbs on your windowsill.

Plants are significant to the holidays celebrated on or near the winter solstice. In an article entitled “Plants of the Winter Solstice,” the Oak Spring Garden Foundation in Virginia describes a long list of trees, shrubs, and vines important to these celebrations.

Evergreens, plants that hang onto their leaves and remain green even during the darkest and coldest months of the year, have fascinated people for millennia. Evergreens are associated with luck, protection, and goodwill. Romans used evergreens for decorations in their temples during December celebrations for Saturn, the god of agriculture. Celtic druids would place food on evergreen trees in hopes of assuring a good harvest in the new year. Evergreens and evergreen wreaths symbolize eternity for Christians celebrating the birth of Christ just after the solstice.

Mistletoe is often used as decoration at this time of year. Native to Europe and Northern Africa, the plant is not only poisonous but also parasitic, taking essential water and nutrients from the trees upon which it grows. Mistletoe has been used through the ages as a cure-all to treat many maladies, including skin ulcers and epilepsy. Romans and Celtic Druids would hang the leaves in their homes for good fortune and peace at this time of year. It is also associated with fertility, which helps to explain our modern-day “kissing under the mistletoe” tradition.

The time around the winter solstice is often called yuletide. The Oak Spring Garden Foundation says the word yule is derived from an Old Norse word which refers to a winter solstice festival honoring the Norse god Jolnir (Odin). The yule log tradition, which began in Western Europe, revolved around a tree trunk or large branch that burned during the longest nights of the year. Oak trees were often the wood of choice because of their association with strength and endurance. Today, people enjoy cakes shaped and decorated to look like a log from a tree.

Speaking of oak trees, they were very important to the ancient people of Europe. To them, the large trees represented the sun, strength, and wisdom, Oak Spring Garden Foundation says. Druid – a term used for ancient Celtic priests – derives from the Celtic word for oak (duir). Oaks often harbored mistletoe (another significant winter solstice plant) and were used in fires during the winter months. People would then sprinkle ashes from the winter solstice oak fires on their fields to symbolize spreading the power of the sun to their crops.

Both the evergreens and the circular shape of holiday wreaths symbolize eternity. Photo by Kristina Gabalski.

Evergreens have special significance at this time of year when the winter solstice brings the shortest days of the year. Photo by Kristina Gabalski.

Local tree farms offer you the choice of a choose-and-cut tree or a pre-cut tree. When you cut your own, you know that it is totally fresh. If you purchase a pre-cut tree, it is nice to do so from a local farmer’s market. These agribusinesses often offer holiday activities and food in addition to helping you select the perfect real tree. This is a wonderful way to support local agriculture and local growers.

When selecting a pre-cut tree, perform a pull test to check if it is fresh. Gently pull the end of a branch with your thumb and forefinger, Michigan State University says. If the tree is fresh, it will hold onto all the needles. If the pull results in a loss of needles, the tree is likely not fresh, so keep looking.

Keep your fresh-cut or pre-cut tree hydrated when you get home. If you cannot put it up right away, store it in a garage or protected unheated space with the cut end in a bucket of water until you are ready to take it inside.

If you haven’t put up a real tree recently or ever, the process of putting it in the stand and getting it straight can be daunting. Michigan State University says a “pin” or “spike-type” tree stand can be very helpful. Some tree lots and choose-and-cut farms will drill the bottom of the tree with specially designed drills to match the pin on this type of stand. This ensures that the tree will stand straight.

For traditional, screw-in stands, you will need more than one person to get the job done. Keep the baling twine on the tree and place the tree in the stand before setting the tree upright. One person can adjust the screws while another person holds and adjusts the trunk. A third set of eyes for confirming the tree is straight is also helpful.

Plan where you will place your tree in your home before hunting for the perfect evergreen. Keep it away from heat sources to help it last longer. Placing it near an electrical outlet is helpful. Make sure you have adequate floor space and ceiling height for the tree you want. Don’t depend on eyeballing it – measure the height of your ceiling before you go, and measure the tree before you purchase it. Remember, placing the tree in a stand can increase its height.

When it’s time to take down your tree, remove any remaining water from the tree stand. Michigan State University recommends a turkey baster or a large sponge to help with this. Place a bed sheet on the floor and lay the tree on it, wrapping the sheet around the tree to help contain loose needles as you remove it from your house.

After that, you can cut up your tree and use it to mulch garden beds, recycle it if your community has recycling options, stand it outside on a stake, or simply lay it flat in a protected area to act as protection and shelter for birds. You can also ask friends and neighbors with livestock if they would like your tree. Goats are an example of one animal that can eat evergreen trees – just make sure ALL decorations are removed and your tree has not been treated with harmful chemicals.

Concolor fir is a popular choice for a real Christmas tree. It has soft needles with a blueish tinge. Photo by Kristina Gabalski.

Crop rotation is a main way to help reduce crop diseases in vegetables. Serious soil-borne fungi, such as Fusarium and Verticillium wilt, can accumulate in the soil by repeatedly planting susceptible crops in the same garden location, according to the University of Wisconsin-Madison Horticulture Program.

Vegetable crops in the same family benefit from being moved around the garden from year to year. Tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, and eggplant are solanaceous crops. Do not plant peppers next year in the same area you grew tomatoes this year, for example, as members of this plant family are susceptible to the same diseases. Other plant families include cucurbits – such as squash, cucumbers, melons, and pumpkins – and cole crops, including cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and kale. Make sure to rotate these families into different areas each year and don’t repeat a member of the same family in the same garden spot year after year. Even plants like sweet corn benefit from rotation as they can pull many nutrients from the soil. Planting nitrogen-fixing legumes such as beans in the same spot as corn the next growing season can help replenish the soil.

Be sure to make a sketch and take some notes now to help you remember details for next spring. Show exactly where crops were grown this year and plan your rotation for 2026. The University of Wisconsin advises taking note of disease and insect problems that occurred this year. Think about changes you may want to make in cultivars for 2026, such as trying varieties that offer disease resistance. Also, write down which cultivars did well or varieties you especially enjoyed in 2025 and would like to plant again next year.

Sanitation is important for preventing disease in your garden. Any plant that suffered severe disease problems should be removed. This is also important for any crops or perennials that suffered a pest infestation. Eggs of pest insects can overwinter in foliage. In contrast to preserving leaf clutter and plant material to help beneficial insects, you work to prevent pest issues by removing affected foliage and plants.

Regarding perennial flowers, you can allow foliage from healthy plants to remain over the winter. This helps to protect the crowns from severe winter cold by allowing snow to collect around them and insulate the plants. The seed heads provide winter interest and food for wildlife. Perennials like peonies benefit from having foliage removed as they are prone to leaf disease that can remain on plant material after the plant has died back for the winter.

University of Wisconsin notes that well-drained, fertile soil is important for healthy plants, which resist disease and insect issues. Late in the year is an ideal time to add compost and organic material to your garden beds, helping to improve the soil. Whether you have heavy clay, sand, or a mix, adding organic material will help. This is because organic material helps create a proper balance of soil water and oxygen, allowing for healthy roots, according to the University of Wisconsin. Disease pathogens tend to thrive in poor soil environments. Additionally, consider replacing the soil in raised beds and containers to create healthy growing conditions for next year.

Gold is one of the beautiful colors of fall, but you might be alarmed if you notice that the needles on your evergreens are turning yellow and dropping. Don’t worry. The most likely explanation, especially later in the year, is that your tree is experiencing a natural drop of old needles.

University of Wisconsin explains that older, inner needles of evergreens discolor and drop off on a cyclical basis. Depending on the species, this can happen every year or every several years. Evergreen needle color change and drop are triggered by the weather and the season.

The most dramatically affected evergreens are white pines, which bear three years’ needles during the summer and two years’ needles in the winter. University of Wisconsin notes that vigorous shoots may have one year’s needles still attached by November, and they may not extend the length of the branch, while the three-year needles will turn yellow and fall. This might make the tree look unhealthy if the shedding needles outnumber the green needles. Don’t be alarmed. This is normal and natural.

Austrian and Scotch pine typically retain needles for three years, with red pine dropping its needles in the fourth year. In the case of these species, green growth typically outnumbers the yellow needles, meaning they will not have the unhealthy appearance that the white pines might have.

Arborvitae – white cedar – have flat needles that turn brown as they age and will remain attached to the tree much longer than old pine needles. Yew needles also turn yellow and drop in the late spring or early summer of their third year. Spruce and fir needle color change and drop may not be as noticeable because the trees retain their needles for several years, and the drop is mainly from the inner branches.

Do not confuse natural needle drop with disease or insect problems. Needle color change and drop are seasonal and will affect the tree throughout its interior portion.

You can examine needles carefully if you have any doubts about the health of your tree. The University of Wisconsin notes that needles that are naturally turning yellow and dropping may sometimes have spots and blemishes, but nothing more, and older needles may also exhibit brown coloration.

Fungal diseases, on the other hand, can cause severe needle discoloration and needle drop. Be aware of this, especially if you notice damage on current-season needles. Additionally, mites can cause non-seasonal needle drop, especially on spruce trees. You will notice a light webbing develop with heavy infestations. You can check for mites by holding a sheet of white paper under a branch. Tap on the branch sharply, and you will see the mites that drop onto the paper. Spruce also may suffer from needle miners, which produce clusters of dried, mined needles, usually webbed together. Aphids can cause severe yellowing of white pine needles, particularly new needles, not old needles that are preparing to drop. Herbicide injury can also cause needle yellowing and drop. Use herbicides according to label directions and do not let drift affect healthy plants and foliage.

One more thing to keep in mind, especially with younger evergreens, is that late fall is a good time to water/irrigate before the ground freezes to prevent winter injury through desiccation.

Should you be concerned if you see yellowing of evergreen needles and needle drop? Photo by Kristina Gabalski.

The University of Massachusetts explains that the amount and frequency of rainfall received during the growing season are more significant for plant growth and health than the total amount of precipitation in a given year. A drought year is defined by the pattern and frequency of rainfall rather than the total amount of rain. Plants need water for life functions, growth, and to help fight off disease and insect damage. Without sufficient rainfall, plants can suffer long-term effects for years, according to the University of Massachusetts.

Penn State University Extension says the best way to handle drought conditions is to plan for them.
Being proactive about practices to conserve water is known as xeriscaping. It includes grouping plants with similar water needs, adding organic material to the soil, using mulch to conserve soil moisture, utilizing rain barrels, rain gardens, and irrigation systems, and selecting plants that tolerate drought conditions, according to Penn State.

Plants that have drought resilience can be broken into two groups: drought evaders or water conservers. Drought evaders are plants that will enter dormancy to avoid less-than-favorable conditions of mid-summer. Spring-flowering bulbs and woodland wildflowers are examples of these.

Cool-season turf grasses also go dormant during dry spells and come back to life when rain and cooler temperatures return. Trees can enter dormancy by starting to drop leaves to conserve water and nutrients.

More helpful to gardeners are water conservers, which have leaf, root, and plant characteristics that minimize moisture loss, according to Penn State.

Plants with deep taproots are an example. My Baptisia has held up well this summer, and that is due to its taproot. Thick fleshy roots – like those of daylilies – can help, although my daylilies looked pretty rough by late July. Succulents like sedums have leaves that store moisture, and my sedums have been very content with very dry conditions this year. Silver-grey foliage, like that of lavender and sage, helps reflect strong sunlight and slows evaporation from the leaves. Conifers have narrow, waxy leaves that also minimize water loss. Penn State says plants like sedums, yuccas, and most grasses and sedges have a photosynthetic process that lessens water loss through pores in the leaves. Choose these water conservers for a drought-tolerant garden.

Take a moment to look around your yard and garden now. What plants have held up well this season? Which plants are struggling, even with supplemental water? Use this information as you make future plant choices.

Penn State says making good choices is important – some drought-tolerant plants do well with little soil moisture, but may struggle with high humidity, for example. Remember, drought-tolerant plants need time to establish themselves in your garden before they become truly tolerant of low moisture. You will need to plant properly and provide sufficient water for at least the first season.